Planting a Tree in Clay Soil
If the drainage test shows that your soil drains poorly, follow the planting details shown here. Digging a standard-depth hole in clay soil will only make the problem worse. The goal is to prevent the roots from suffocating in a hole filled with soggy clay soil. Dig the planting hole so that only half of the root ball is below the surrounding soil. Then refill the planting hole with a 50/50 mix of good black dirt and the clay soil you removed. Haul in enough good soil to pile up to the root ball and slope down to grade to form a 6- to 10-ft. diameter circle. Cover the new soil with a 2-in. layer of organic mulch like wood chips or bark.
There’s no hard fast rule about staking
Most experts agree that a tree will develop a stronger trunk if it’s allowed to sway in the breeze. On the other hand, too much movement can tear new roots and prevent the tree from getting established. And in windy areas, trees with lightweight rootballs can blow over. If you plant the tree in an area that’s exposed to wind, stake it for the first year. Potted trees are more likely to need staking because their root balls are not as heavy as those of balled and burlapped trees. It’s better to err on the side of caution, since it only takes about half an hour to drive stakes and add ties. Too much water is harmful too. The low-tech method for testing soil moisture is to simply stick your finger into the soil of the root ball. Do this every time before you water. If the soil is saturated, don’t water.
Wait to prune and fertilize
Fertilizing your new tree isn’t necessary and may even be harmful. It may be beneficial to fertilize your tree after the second year. Ask your grower to recommend a fertilizing schedule for your tree. Trim off broken or dead branches but don’t
prune to shape until the second year.
